Why Are My Nails Peeling? – Allure Magazine (blog)

We love a peel as part of a facial. But peeling nails? Not so much.

While peeling nails is usually not a sign of a major medical issue, it might indicate that your manicures are doing more to work versus you than for you.

Here’s what it means and what to do if your digits are acting unruly. Read our tips on how to ensure your next trip to the salon will help your nails become stronger and healthier, not the other way around.

What Is It?

The first thing to keep in mind if you’ve got peeling nails is that “nail changes are common as we get older,” says Joshua Zeichner, the director of cosmetic and clinical research in the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.

While the exact reasons behind age-related changes are unknown, medical experts tie them to dysfunctional blood circulation and the cumulative effects of UV rays, according to a 2011 study conducted by researchers at the American University of Beirut. Another factor: Just as our bodies develop with age, the growth rate and shape of the nail plate can alter as we get older.

In medical speak, peeling nails is known as “onychoschizia,” in which thin layers of the nails “literally separate from the free nail edge and peel back.” The condition is rarely associated with any general health concerns, Zeichner says. It could be the result of excessive hand washing, nail dryness, or the use of acrylics and other nail polishes.

He adds, however, that brittle nails could be a sign of low thyroid function or anemia. Yellowing nails are sometimes associated with lung disease; white discoloration of half or more of the nail may signal kidney or liver disease. If in doubt, see your physician to check it out.

What Not to Do:

Before you head to the salon, let’s make sure your manicure is actually helping, and not hurting, your nails.

Nadine Abramcyk, a cofounder of Tenoverten, a New York City–based nail salon, says, “Overbuffing on top of the nail weakens it tremendously.” It could also make it more prone to peel. She recommends making sure the buffer moves in a single direction and never sits directly on top of the nail. A buffer should only be used gently along the edges of the nail and the nail bed, to clean up the cuticle area.

A file with a strong grit can tear the nail, causing more damage and potential nail breakage. “A healthy manicure has light cuticle care with only a bit of trimming, filing with a softer file and buffing along the edge of the nails with cuticle oil to avoid damage to the nail bed,” says Abramcyk.

Extra Credit:

Give your nails time to breathe between manicures, says Abramcyk. Removing polish at home with a nonacetone remover and then applying a nontoxic strengthening basecoat can help restore the nails. The Tenoverten Non-Acetone Polish Remover + Finishing Hand Cleanser Cloths ($32 for 10) are biodegradable, paraben-free, and infused with essential oils, aloe, and vitamin E to keep nails nourished without the harsh odor. You can stash them in your bag.

Abramcyk also advises staying away from basecoats that claim to be nourishing but contain formaldehyde as an ingredient. She recommends Tenoverten The Foundation ($18) and RGB Nail Care in Base ($18) as safe and healthy options. To further moisturize and protect the nails, cuticles, and hands, the beauty guru loves UKA Nail Oils ($33 to $39), from Japan, and Lano Rose Hand Cream ($18).

Abramcyk’s final—and the simplest—tip for keeping your nails healthy and smooth? Drink water, and much of it.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ILAN RUBIN

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