May 29, 2016

50 don’t-miss new restaurants to try this summer in Chicago – Chicago Tribune

Inspired by the summer reading lists that burdened my childhood summers. I present my annual Summer Eating List, a compilation of recently opened, soon-to-open and hoping-to-open restaurants that will brighten Chicago’s dining scene in the coming months.

Your assignment: Visit at as many of these restaurants as you can. Because I doubt anybody, including myself, can get to every one of these newcomers (heaven forfend I dissuade you from patronizing your favorite restaurants, as well, this summer), I’ve grouped them in order of presumed importance. Required Eating restaurants are the ones you simply must visit; Electives are ones you should seriously consider; Extra Credit are offbeat choices (but definitely worthwhile); and Field Trips are my farther-flung picks (which, depending on where you call home, may not be so far-flung).

Restaurants are listed along with their projected opening dates, which, as any Chicago foodie knows, are subject to change.

Required eating

Animale. Cameron Grant and Aldo Zaninotto, of the much-admired Osteria Langhe in Logan Square, are behind this casual Italian headed for Wicker Park. Order your pastas, panini or other regional treats at the counter; the person bringing the food to your table will be one of the chefs who cooked it. Opening mid-June. 1904 N. Western Ave., 872-315-3912.

Arbella. A 74-seat cocktail lounge virtually next door to (and related to) the Peruvian restaurant Tanta, Arbella will reflect the cultural diversity represented by its principals. Expect wide-ranging cocktails and a tight menu of global small-plates by Tanta chefs Jesus Delgado and Cristian Padilla. Check out the happy-hour action. Opened May 21. 112 W. Grand Ave., 312-344-1673.

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Bad Hunter. If there’s a better name for a veggie-focused restaurant, I haven’t heard it. There actually will be some animal protein on the menu by chef Dan Snowden (ex-Publican, Nico Osteria), but don’t count on a lot of it. Paved flooring and lots of greenery will evoke an English garden look. Opening late-June. 802 W. Randolph St., no phone yet.

Blue Door Kitchen & Garden. Art Smith’s former Table Fifty-Two will return as a “farm to family” restaurant focused on seasonal and approachable dishes from chefs Todd Hawkesworth and Rey Villalobos. Me, I’m intrigued by the “garden to glass” cocktails. Opening early to mid-June. 52 W. Elm St., 312-573-4000.

Duck Duck Goat. Stephanie Izard‘s latest restaurant, a playful take on Chinese flavors, is one of this summer’s hottest destinations. Though authenticity isn’t a goal, serious cooking is; dough is made daily, noodles are hand-pulled, soup dumplings made to order. It’s a lot of fun. Opened mid-April. 857 W. Fulton Market, 312-902-3825.

Coda di Volpe. The result of a collaboration between Billy Lawless (The Gage, Acanto) and Ryan O’Donnell (Gemini Bistro), Coda di Volpe will offer a Southern Italian menu, including Neapolitan pizzas. Chef Christopher Thompson’s impressive resume includes several years each at heralded San Francisco restaurants A16 and Spruce. Opening midsummer. 3335 N. Southport Ave., no phone yet.

Cruz Blanca and Lena Brava. Everything Rick Bayless touches seems to turn to gold, so little wonder the side-by-side restaurant duo are pulling in the crowds. Cruz Blanca is the very casual side, featuring craft beers and tacos (cerveceria y taqueria), while Lena Brava is a sit-down restaurant featuring dishes from Baja California Norte, all cooked over open flame. Make the time to get here. Opened May 5. 900 W. Randolph St., 312-733-1975.

Dixie. Charlie McKenna of Lillie’s Q plans a Southern concept focusing on vegetables, peas, rice and seafood as found in Charleston, S.C., and Savannah (though he stops short of calling it Low Country, preferring “an evolution of Southern food”) in the former Takashi space. The garage on the property is being converted into a cocktail bar that will supply the main restaurant but also will offer drinks and snacks of its own. Opening late-June to mid-July. 1952 N. Damen Ave., no phone yet.

Oriole. One of the most refined dining experiences in Chicago can be found at this offbeat West Loop restaurant, though its alleylike location and elevator-shaft entrance hardly indicate that. Once inside, the 16-course tasting menu (by chef Noah Sandoval and pastry chef Genie Kwon) and service are sublime. It’s a high-end, $300-per-person experience. Opened mid-March. 661 W. Walnut St., 312-877-5339.

Honey’s. Promising simple ingredients and sophisticated cooking from Sepia alums Charles Welch (chef/partner) and Alison Cates (pastry chef), this 100-seat Fulton Market restaurant could be this summer’s sleeper. Opening early summer. 1111 W. Lake St., no phone yet.

Giant. Jason Vincent, the Food & Wine Best New Chef (2013) who has been seen only in glimpses since he left Nightwood, is as eager to start cooking again as many of us are to taste his food. What we can say about the menu is that Vincent is excited about his pasta-makers and extruders, and about his ribs smoker. Check on the restaurant’s progress at http://ift.tt/1XI3QMr, but the wait is almost over. Opening mid-June. 3209 W. Armitage Ave., 773-252-0997.

Revival Food Hall. The folks who brought us Longman & Eagle, The Promontory, Dusek’s and Moneygun are behind this 24,000 square-foot food court in the Loop, which will operate more than a dozen grab-and-go food stalls and several quick-serve operations (Furious Spoon and Antique Taco are already signed up), along with a multi-roaster coffee cafe and full-service bar. Opening mid-July. 125 S. Clark St.

Roister. It’s hard to believe this, loud, primal and communal restaurant came from the minds behind Alinea, Next and The Aviary, but that’s exactly the case. Andrew Brochu employs open-hearth cooking and a deft hand with fermented flavors and bold ingredient pairings. A recently opened basement-level space offers a tasting menu. Opened early April. 951 W. Fulton Market.

Smyth and The Loyalist. These two restaurants represent a homecoming for chefs John B. Shields and Karen Urie Shields, two Charlie Trotter alums who also logged time at Alinea (John) and Tru (Karen). Sharing an address, Smyth will be the tasting menu, ticketed dining experience, while downstairs, The Loyalist will be the more drop-in casual and affordable spot. Opening in July (The Loyalist first, Smyth four weeks after that). 177 N. Ada St., no phone yet.

Steadfast. The most ambitious project yet from the Fifty/50 Group (Roots Pizza, Homestead on the Roof, The Sixth, more) will debut in the new Kimpton Gray Hotel in the Loop, featuring executive chef Christopher Davies and executive pastry chef Christopher Teixeira. The American menu will embrace Mediterranean and Portuguese influences, and the kitchen crew will have a wood-fired rotisserie and charcuterie room to play with. This will be a showcase for two talented (and as yet underappreciated) chefs. Opening late-June. 120 W. Monroe St., no phone yet.

Electives

Beacon Tavern. Billy Lawless’ new gastropub sits in a plaza next to Trump Tower; the “sea meets land” menu by Bob Broskey includes steamed crabs and oysters, roast chicken and prime steak. Expect a serious beverage program. Opened May 17. 405 N. Wabash Ave., 312-955-4226.

The Budlong. In the space that once belonged to Bunny the Micro Bakery comes this Nashville-style hot-chicken specialist by Jared Leonard (who also owns Rub’s Backcountry Smokehouse in Rogers Park). The chef is Jonathan Zaragoza, of Birria Zaragoza fame. Opened May 17. 2928 N. Broadway, 773-270-9005.

Circa and Upstairs at The Gwen. The former Conrad Hotel in Michigan Avenue’s Nordstrom complex has been rebranded The Gwen, and with that change come two new dining environments. Circa is an elevated-American restaurant with art deco decor and an emphasis on cocktails; Upstairs at The Gwen is the re-christened outdoor terrace with a small-plates menu and a bar that features frozen “poptail” drinks. Opened May 16. 521 N. Rush St., 312-645-1500.

Conrad Hotel. The new Conrad hotel will debut with no fewer than three concepts by noted restaurateur Richard Sandoval (Latinicity). Il Tavolino will be main floor breakfast-lunch-dinner Italian with indoor and outdoor seating; Baptiste & Bottle will be the small plates, major-bar-program perch on the 20th floor; and Noyane will be the rooftop venue featuring Latin-influenced Japanese fare. Opening mid-July. 101 E. Erie St., 312-667-6700.

The Dearborn. The sprawling, 225-seat restaurant in the Block 37 complex comes from Amy and Clodagh Lawless, sisters to Billy Lawless. Aaron Cuschieri will be the chef; Courtney Joseph will be the pastry chef. Opening mid-June. 145 N. Dearborn St., 312-384-1242.

El Che Bar. John Manion’s second restaurant (La Sirena Clandestina is his other property), years in the making, is almost here. Look for locally focused food that reflects Manion’s many travels in South America; the restaurant will feature an open hearth as its decorative focal point and primary cooking method. Opening early summer. 845 W. Washington Blvd., 312-226-5300.

Finch Kitchen. The former BreakRoom Brewery has been taken over by Matthias Merges (and the BreakRoom folks) to create this restaurant to complement Finch Beer Co. Merges promises a “stripped-down menu” of sausages and the like bearing “international flavors,” all in service of creating a neighborhood spot with handcrafted drinks and food. Opening June 9. 2929 W. Montrose Ave., 773-942-7949.

Flamingo Rum Club. This new Phil Stefani project (designed by Adolfo Garcia) seeks to capture pre-Castro Cuban nightlife in a smallish space in the heart of River North. Opening early July. 601 N. Wells St., no phone yet.

GT Prime. It has been a busy year for the Boka Group, which already opened Swift & Sons and Duck Duck Goat (within two blocks of each other). Next on the horizon is GT Prime, a meaty sequel to GT Fish & Oyster (these two also will be within two blocks of each other), offering prime cuts of steak in 4- and 8-ounce portions (and a carnivore platter that will include multiple cuts), along with venison, duck, quail, bison, suckling pig and other proteins. Expect a bustling, no-tablecloth, approachable atmosphere similar to its parent. Opening early August. 707 N. Wells St., no phone yet.

Imperial Lamian. The first U.S. link in a substantial Indonesian chain, Imperial Lamian boasts superior creature comforts and a modern/traditional Chinese menu. Not everything sings, but particularly strong are the hand-pulled noodles (which is what lamian are). Opened March 4. 6 W. Hubbard St., 312-595-9440.

Nonnina. Piccolo Sogno Due is getting a makeover; emerging from the dust will be an old-school Italian restaurant featuring executive chef and partner Chris Macchia (ex-Coco Pazzo, The Florentine, Labriola Ristorante). The restaurant will include a grab-and-go counter for customers on the run. Opening late-June. 340 N. Clark St., 312-822-0077.

Ocean Cut. The former C Chicago has reinvented itself as a less-pricey seafood restaurant, with chef Dirk Flanigan taking the wheel. You’ll still be able to order whole fish, but now there are more straight fillet cuts, intriguing newcomers such as a seafood charcuterie board, and a couple-three steaks from sister property Chicago Cut. Opened May 5. 20 W. Kinzie St., 312-280-8882.

Old Irving Brewing Co. What was to be Crooked Fork Brewing until the untimely death of partner Homaro Cantu has been taken over by Trevor Rose-Hamblin (who was to be part of the original concept) and Merges. The beer will be matched to a menu of what Merges called “bold American classics,” and, given Merges’ other projects, put the accent on “bold.” Opening mid-August. 4415 W. Montrose Ave., no phone yet.

Pleasant House Pub. Pleasant House Bakery will close its Bridgeport store and relocate to the former Nightwood space in east Pilsen. All the Pleasant House faves will make the move along with Art and Chelsea Jackson, including the Friday fish fry and Sunday carvery. But now there will be beer and an expanded menu (fish and chips, daily burger) to match it. Opening mid-June. 2119 S. Halsted St., no phone yet.

Robert’s Pizza Co. Robert Garvey’s pizza crusts have been legendary among Chicago’s private-party set, and now his pizzas, with straightforward toppings as well as exotic notions such as Peking duck, and bacon with Brussels sprouts, are available to all via a 50-seat pizzeria in Streeterville. Opened early April. 355 E. Ohio St., 312-222-0905.

Seoul Taco. This Mexican-Korean mashup (think bulgogi tacos, Seoul burritos) originated as a St. Louis food truck. Its several Missouri locations will be joined by the company’s fourth location, its first foray into the Chicago area. Opening Tuesday. 738 N. Clark St., no phone yet.

Extra credit

Americano 2211. The former Birchwood Kitchen has become a breakfast-lunch spot featuring coffee, tea and partner Nancy Silver’s pastries and ice cream, and savory hot items by executive chef Fred Noinaj. Dinner service and bar to come. Opened mid-April. 2211 W. North Ave., 773-360-8757.

Broken English. You’ll probably walk by this taco-centric newcomer, a collaboration between Stefani and Garcia ; indeed, the eyebrow-raising name is a self-deprecating joke by Garcia, who sometimes mixes English and Spanish when talking excitedly. Its block-north-of-Millennium-Park location guarantees plenty of foot traffic. Opened early May. 75 E. Lake St., 312-929-3601.

Burnt City Brewing Co. What was once Atlas Brewing company has been reborn, after a virtual trial by fire, as Burnt City, whose beers have cool names such as Balloon Boy Farmhouse Wheat Ale and Dick the Butcher Pale Ale. As a nod to the name, menu items are mostly smoked. An attached bowling alley and outdoor patio add to the appeal. Opened May 6. 2747 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-295-1270.

Earl’s Drive-Thru BBQ. The lines form early for this Jefferson Park barbecue-and-doughnuts concept, which opens at noon most days (closed Mondays) and is owned by the folks behind Lokal. Fair warning: When Earl’s sells out (and it has happened a few times already), it closes for the day. 4835 N. Austin Ave., 773-628-7870.

Kimski. Adjacent to Maria’s Packaged Goods & Community Bar is this tiny, counter-service restaurant (with an outdoor patio) featuring beer, wine and Korean-Polish fusion dishes. Opened May 10. 960 W. 31st St., 773-890-0588.

Manny’s Coffee Shop and Delicatessen. Manny’s has been undergoing a substantial renovation since October (while staying open virtually the entire time), and next week, it will open to the public in its finished state. The interior has been reconfigured, but pains have been taken to retain that one-of-a-kind atmosphere. Grand unveiling June 7. 1141 S. Jefferson St., 312-939-6300.

Millie’s Supper Club. A virtual re-creation of a Wisconsin supper club, right down to the tufted-red-leather booths, the relish tray, the prime rib and fish-fry menu and the Hamm’s commercials on the tube. Did I mention the pink squirrel cocktails? Those too. You have to see this at least once. Opened early April. 2438 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-857-2000.

The Rookery. What was once the Old Oak Tap in Ukrainian Village is now The Rookery, featuring some previous OOT owners and new chef Michael Dean Reynolds (ex-Bread & Wine, Brass Monkey). Opened early May. 2109 W. Chicago Ave., 773-772-0406.

Thrive360 Eatery. From the people behind Protein Bar comes this new concept, which opened this month in a former Protein Bar space. It has all the drinks that make Protein Bar so popular, plus an increased focus on healthy eating (all items listed with calorie and nutritional information). Opened May 18. 37 S. LaSalle St., 312-801-3909.

Field trips

Avli Restaurant & Rotisserie. Adjacent to the popular Avli Estiatorio in Winnetka’s Laundry shopping center, the rotisserie is a fast-casual concept offering rotisserie-roasted, sustainably raised meats in entree or sandwich form. Opened May 19. 566 Chestnut St., Winnetka, 847-446-6000.

Elske. Set your time machine to October for David and Anna Posey’s much-anticipated, Danish-influenced (“elske” means “love”) restaurant at 1350 W. Randolph St., where construction has just begun.

Honey’s Hot Chicken. The countdown is on for this fried-chicken specialist on the North Shore. It’s the brainchild of Real Urban Barbecue principals Jeff Shapiro and Dean Eliacostas. Opening mid-June. 1791 St. John’s Ave., Highland Park, no phone yet.

McWethy’s Tavern. Grab your sticks and head to the newly transformed Mistwood Golf Club, whose Scottish-inspired, multimillion-dollar clubhouse houses this casual restaurant, along with thousands of square feet of special-event space. Opened late April. 1700 W. Renwick Road, Romeoville, 815-254-3333.

Terra & Vine. Alpana Singh’s Italian-Mediterranean concept in downtown Evanston is still a few months away, but things are falling into place; Singh just named Andrew Graves, a veteran of the Alinea group, as executive chef. Look for open-fire cooking (using a customized hearth) and pizzas (thanks to an oven left behind by previous tenant Bravo); a 40-seat Bar Terra will offer expedited bites for customers heading for the nearby movie theaters. Opening mid-October. 1701 Maple Ave., Evanston, no phone yet.

Tre Rivali. Many Chicagoans visit Milwaukee in the summer, and this up-and-coming restaurant in the Kimpton Hotel in the historic Third Ward ought to be on their radar, because the chef, Heather Terhune, made lots of Chicago friends in her many years at Atwood and Sable Kitchen & Bar. Opening mid-June. 200 N. Broadway, Milwaukee; no phone yet.

Phil Vettel is a Tribune critic.

pvettel@tribpub.com

Twitter @PhilVettel

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